Western Wanderlust Chronicles

“Should you shield the canyons from the windstorms you would never see the true beauty of their carvings.” – Elisabeth Kübler-Ross

Day 3: Backpacking to Havasupai – A Hidden Oasis

After months of planning and excitement, our group was finally embarking on an epic 2,500-mile journey through Utah and northern Arizona. What I didn’t know at the time was that this trip would turn into one of the most unforgettable experiences of my life, shared with new friends—especially Bill, someone I had only just met but would soon create lasting memories with.

Waking Up to Adventure

Bill and I started Day 3 with an early wake-up call at the Havasupai Trailhead. To our surprise, we were greeted by the sight of horses wandering near the Jeep. The night before had been a blur, and we hadn’t noticed we had parked next to a corral. The horses and mules in this area play a vital role, delivering supplies and mail to Supai Village, the remote home of the Havasupai people, where cars don’t exist. Everything arrives by helicopter or mule train—an incredible piece of history in itself.

With the air still crisp and the sky dark, we prepared for the long backpacking journey ahead. The trail can be grueling under the desert sun, so setting off before sunrise was essential. Equipped with headlamps and fully loaded backpacks, our group set out from Hualapai Hilltop for the 10-mile hike to Havasupai Falls. The adventure had officially begun.

Descending into the Canyon

The trail immediately greeted us with a series of steep switchbacks that led down into the Hualapai Canyon. As we descended, the sun began to rise, casting a golden glow on the red canyon walls. It was the perfect way to start the day—surrounded by breathtaking natural beauty.

The hike to Havasupai is not for the faint of heart. Starting at 5,200 feet the trail descends 2,000 feet in elevation, with half of that descent packed into the first mile or so. Despite the challenging terrain, the breathtaking views made it all worthwhile. Towering rock layers in brilliant red hues, carved over millions of years, stood as magnificent reminders of Earth’s ancient history. As we made our way deeper into the canyon, we passed a unique rock formation, pitted with countless holes resembling honeycomb tafoni. It had become a custom for hikers to place small rocks into these cavities, and I couldn’t resist adding my own to the growing collection. Each step brought us closer to the village and deeper into this awe-inspiring landscape, where we felt small against nature’s grandeur.

Entering the Oasis: The First Glimpse of Turquoise Waters

As we continued, the canyon gradually narrowed, and the red walls gave way to patches of vibrant green. Every so often, we stepped aside for mule trains to pass, grateful to avoid stepping on any cacti during the trek. Cottonwood trees began to appear, their shade offering some relief from the desert heat. The excitement grew as we approached Supai Village, where the desert landscape transitioned into a lush oasis. And then we saw it—the turquoise waters of Havasu Creek. It felt like a mirage, but this vibrant blue water was real, and we were about to experience it up close.

Before heading further, we stopped in the village to pick up our permits and wristbands. A quick break at the café provided us with the perfect post-hike fuel. The fried bread was a welcome treat after the long hike. My Supai taco with fried bread hit the spot, which is exactly what we needed after the first leg of our journey.

The Final Stretch to Havasu Falls

With our energy restored, we set out on the final two-mile stretch to the campground. Along the way, we passed the beautiful 50 Foot Falls and Little Navajo Falls, their cascades adding to the excitement. And then, we heard it—the thunderous sound of Havasu Falls. When we rounded the corner and finally saw it in all its glory, it was breathtaking. Havasu Falls plunges 100 feet into a turquoise pool, surrounded by towering red cliffs. It was a surreal moment.

Setting Up Camp and Exploring Mooney Falls

We hiked toward the back of the Havasu Campground, crossing a rustic bridge over the creek, and found the perfect spot to set up camp near the water. For the first time, Bill and I tried hammock camping, and I quickly fell in love with it. Bill was nervous about falling out of his hammock and into the creek. The rushing sound of the creek drowned out the world around us, creating a peaceful and calming atmosphere.

After setting up, our group ventured back to Havasu Falls for a bit of exploring and swimming. There’s nothing quite like cooling off in those crystal-clear waters after a long hike.

On our way back to camp, we made a stop at the Mooney Falls overlook. At 190 feet tall, Mooney Falls is even more impressive than Havasu Falls. The sight of it was both thrilling and intimidating. We checked out the descent path, knowing we’d tackle it the next day. For now, though, we headed back to camp for dinner and drifted off to sleep, lulled by the sounds of the flowing creek.

Looking Ahead: The Confluence Hike

The next day, we would embark on an early morning hike to the Confluence, where Havasu Creek meets the mighty Colorado River. But for now, I soaked in the beauty of the moment, feeling grateful for the adventure, the people I was with, and the stunning wilderness we were lucky enough to explore.

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The backpacking trip to Havasupai was everything we could have hoped for and more—an unforgettable experience filled with natural beauty, serenity, and a deep sense of awe. As I drifted off to sleep, listening to the creek’s flow, I knew this was only the beginning of many more adventures to come.