Western Wanderlust Chronicles

“I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery…” – Sylvia Plath

Day 4: The Ultimate Hike: A Mesmerizing Journey to the Confluence

The highlight of the Arizona backpacking trip was hiking to the confluence of the Colorado River and Havasu Creek. On the second day of our four-day Havasupai adventure, we followed the Havasu Creek from the campground all the way to its dramatic meeting point with the Colorado River. This hike, set against the bright orange canyon walls contrasted with the turquoise waters of Havasu Creek, and culminating in the unforgettable sight of two contrasting rivers colliding.

An Early Start to Avoid the Dark Ascent

Before setting out, Jackie, who had been to the confluence before, shared stories of its breathtaking beauty. The hike sounded challenging —17 miles in one day—but I was determined to experience it. Though apprehensive about the 10-mile hike in, followed by a 17-mile day, I reassured myself with the knowledge of a rest day before the hike out. With an early start, we began our trek, mindful of the need to return before nightfall—Jackie had once climbed Mooney Falls in the dark, an experience she was eager to avoid.

Mooney Falls: The Descent into Wonderland

Our first challenge was descending Mooney Falls. This towering 190-foot waterfall marks the start of the trail, and getting to the base requires navigating steep ladders, a couple of caves and exposed on one side. As Jackie and I made our way down, I took it slow and steady, ensuring my footing on the slick, mist-covered ladder and grip on the chains. Once at the bottom, I paused to take in the sheer power and beauty of Mooney Falls cascading from the desert rock above. Looking back up to the ladders, I saw Bill and Barry approaching—they had decided to join Jackie and me on the hike.

Following the Turquoise Waters of Havasu Creek

The trail led us along the creek, crossing back and forth through its turquoise waters. Jackie’s memory of the route was invaluable as it was difficult at times to distinguish the main trail from numerous social trails are going every which way. This stretch of the hike quickly became a favorite—there’s something magical about wading through the peaceful, clear water with the towering red canyon walls reflecting off its surface. Each river crossing felt like a discovery, with hidden trails sometimes marked only by a small cairns.

The landscape was lush and full of life, unlike the arid desert we had left behind at the start of the journey. Tall greenery lined the creek, and the tranquility of the flowing water made it feel like we had stepped into a storybook. The day was filled with moments of awe, but we couldn’t linger too long as we still had many miles to cover.

Beaver Falls: A Hidden Canyon Oasis

After navigating a few ladders and crossing some unique bridges, we reached Beaver Falls—a stunning series of cascades. I hadn’t anticipated such grandeur and beauty. As we paused for a break, we were joined by a solo hiker we had met earlier. She wanted to see the confluence but didn’t want to hike alone. Our group of four became five, and together we pressed on. The trail grew more challenging, but the beauty of the canyon made each step worthwhile.

Crossing into Grand Canyon National Park

Shortly after leaving Beaver Falls, we passed a sign marking the boundary between Havasupai Tribal Lands and Grand Canyon National Park. After staying high on the cliff, we descended switchbacks that led down to the creek. The trail was straightforward on the descent, but on the way back up, it was a different story. The route blended into the cliffside, making it difficult to spot once we had crossed the river. We tried to mentally mark where we had come down but were fortunate that someone had tied a pink ribbon to a tree, to help mark the trail.

Once we reached the creek, and navigated more river crossings, the landscape began to shift, signaling that we were getting closer to our destination. The canyon walls closed in, creating a narrow passage that amplified the sound of the creek. Approaching the end of our journey, everyone felt a sense of anticipation. Jackie suggested we take a group shot at the tunnel, a sign that we were almost there.

The Confluence: Where Two Rivers Meet

After hours of hiking, we rounded the corner and the sight of the confluence unfolded before us. It was even more breathtaking than I had imagined. The moment we arrived, I was struck by the sheer beauty and grandeur of the scene. The narrow canyon, with its towering walls as the two rivers met in a dramatic and stunning display.

The vibrant turquoise of Havasu Creek clashed with the murky brown of the Colorado River in a breathtaking display of contrasts. The two rivers merged with such force and energy, creating a swirling, dynamic blend of colors that felt surreal and mesmerizing. The crystal-clear waters of Havasu Creek met the Colorado River’s powerful, relentless current, which had carved its path through the Grand Canyon over millennia. Framed by the rugged, towering canyon walls, the scene became even more captivating. I stood there, completely entranced, feeling as though I was witnessing nature’s most magnificent artwork.

A Break at the Bottom of the Grand Canyon

There was a moment when I had the two rivers to myself. I made my way down to the river, where the water levels were low enough to expose a safe, shallow sandbar. It was an unforgettable experience, standing in a rare intersection of nature’s beauty. As I kneel down in Havasu Creek’s turquoise waters, I washed my hair in the Colorado River. After spending some time playing around in the narrow canyons—where Bill took a swim near the narrowest point of the canyon—we settled on a rock ledge. There, we enjoyed lunch, dried off, and watched rafters float down the Colorado River, marveling at the majestic scenery surrounding us.

The Journey Back: Chasing Canyon Light

After a peaceful lunch, it was time to head back. Although we had 8 miles ahead of us, the shifting canyon light made the return hike just as captivating. The changing shadows and colors painted the canyon walls in ways I hadn’t noticed before. I was captivated all over again.

Despite the beauty, fatigue began to set in, and as we reached the switchbacks, I realized I hadn’t fully memorized the trail’s switchback descent. Thankfully, the pink ribbon guided us back to the trail. We sat by the creek swapping out our river shoes for hiking shoes, preparing for the rocky-sandy stretch ahead.

A Surprising Twist on the Final Ascent

With only three miles left to Mooney Falls and daylight still on our side, I felt a surge of energy. I told Bill I was going to hike up the cliff and wait for our group up there. However, little did we know, the final leg of the journey would bring some unexpected challenges.

A New Route and Race Against the Sunset

While waiting, I struck up a conversation with a group of hikers Jackie had come down with the day before. After 15 minutes, my group still hadn’t arrived. The group I was chatting with was ready to head back, and not wanting to hike alone, I decided to continue with my new friends. They were a wonderful group, full of great energy, and I was happy to get to them better.

On the way back, we took a different route, following Havasu Creek up toward Mooney Falls. It was refreshing to experience a new trail, and a passing group even mentioned that my friends weren’t far behind us, so I didn’t worry. Along the way, we stumbled upon a small grotto tucked to the side of the creek, where we stopped for a moment to explore and play. As daylight faded, we knew we had to keep moving. We reached the base of Mooney Falls at dusk. By the time we reached the second cave, we had to use our phone flashlights to navigate the climb. With the last bit of light disappearing behind us, we finally reached the top of the cliff. Hikers from our larger group were hanging out at the top. I let them know we still had four people down in the canyon making their way back, but they should be arriving soon.

A Challenging Journey Back for Bill and the Group

Meanwhile, Bill and the others had their own adventure, what can only be described as a Type 2 adventure. The hiker who joined us at Beaver Falls was unprepared for the demanding day and struggled during the final three miles. The group encouraged the person to keep going, offering spare clothes and snacks to help the hiker through. Despite the challenge, Bill and the others remained calm and positive, helping the hiker push through the exhaustion.

They returned after dark, navigating four of the eight river crossings under challenging conditions. The maze of social trails made it difficult to find the way, especially with limited visibility. Jackie and the group had to ascend Mooney Falls in darkness—a daunting task, but one Jackie had faced before and was prepared to tackle again. Bill’s headlamp and endurance were crucial, as he guided the struggling hiker, using his body to help her safely up the ladders. When they finally reached the top, they were met with cheers from our anxious group, relieved and grateful for their safe return.

Finally, back at camp, exhausted from the long day, the group savored a hot dinner and relaxed, while sharing stories of their eventful day.

Reflections on the Journey: A Test of Endurance and Awe

Looking back on the hike to the confluence, I realize how much this adventure was not just about the destination, but about the journey itself. Each twist and turn of the trail, every river crossing, and even the moments of fatigue taught me something about perseverance. The beauty of nature has a way of stripping away distractions, leaving only the raw experience of being fully alive in the moment. Standing at the meeting of two great rivers, I felt small yet deeply connected to something larger than myself. The sheer power of the Colorado River and the crystal blue waters of Havasu Creek reflected the duality of strength and serenity—qualities I found mirrored in my own experience throughout the hike. This journey reminded me that the challenges we face, both on the trail and in life, often lead to the most profound moments of awe and personal growth.

Note: The Importance of Preparation for Long and Strenuous Hikes

Reflecting on my journey to the confluence, it became clear just how important preparation is for long and challenging hikes. No matter how beautiful the destination, a strenuous hike can test both your physical endurance and mental resilience. Ensuring you have the right gear, proper nourishment, and a solid understanding of the trail conditions is crucial for a successful and enjoyable experience. From having a headlamp for those unexpected night ascents to carrying extra snacks and layers to share with others, preparation makes all the difference when the adventure becomes more demanding than expected. It’s better to be over-prepared than caught off guard, allowing you to fully appreciate the beauty and challenges of the trail.