Western Wanderlust Chronicles

Some adventures are meticulously planned, while others take shape in the most unexpected ways. Day 3 of our Utah adventure was a perfect mix of both—winding scenic drives, towering red cliffs, dinosaur tracks, and slot canyons so narrow they forced us to squeeze through sideways. From Burr Trail Road to Hell’s Backbone and finally deep into Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (GSENM), every turn revealed something new and unforgettable.

Burr Trail Road: A Journey Through Time

The day began with a drive down the Burr Trail Scenic Backway, leaving the western boundary of Capitol Reef and heading toward the eastern portion of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, just east of Boulder, UT.

This remote road wound through the Circle Cliffs, Long Canyon, and The Gulch, with towering sandstone walls rising steeply on either side. The rock layers here told a story millions of years old—red, lavender, buff, and green claystone of the Triassic Chinle Formation beneath the sheer Wingate Sandstone cliffs. The contrast was stunning, and with every turn, the canyon walls seemed to stretch even higher.

Long Canyon stole the show—a dramatic, narrow chasm with dark streaks of desert varnish running down its blood-red sandstone walls. The sheer scale of it all made us feel small in the best way possible.

Hell’s Backbone: A Wild and Unexpected Detour

From Burr Trail, we continued onto Hell’s Backbone Road, a rugged 35-mile scenic route bridging the towering Boulder Mountain to the deep canyons carved by the Escalante River. The route took us into Box-Death Hollow Wilderness, an area of steep Navajo sandstone cliffs, dramatic ridgelines, and expansive views.

The famous Hell’s Backbone Bridge was a thrilling sight—perched over a deep, rugged chasm, with drop-offs on both sides and jaw-dropping views of the Escalante canyons below. Standing on the bridge, I looked out over the miles of untouched wilderness, feeling as if we had stepped into another world.

Then came the surprise—snow.

It was Memorial Day Weekend in southern Utah, and yet, there it was—a fresh, lingering patch of white. While Bill was more interested in starting a snowball fight, I felt the need to build a tiny snowman as a tribute to this bizarre, high-elevation winter moment in the middle of the desert.

Grand Staircase-Escalante: Into the Wild

If there was one place I had been eagerly anticipating, it was Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. This 1.9-million-acre wilderness is home to some of the most remote and rugged landscapes in the country, and it had been calling my name for years.

The legendary Hole-in-the-Rock Road—a 55-mile dirt road cutting through the heart of GSENM—was our gateway to adventure.

Devil’s Garden: A Hidden Playground of Hoodoos

Bill and I’s first stop along Hole-in-the-Rock Road was Devil’s Garden, an otherworldly geologic wonderland of hoodoos, natural arches, and sculpted rock formations.

Unlike the deep, narrow slot canyons that GSENM is known for, Devil’s Garden is an open landscape, where sandstone spires and freestanding rock towers rise from the desert floor. The area is small but incredibly photogenic, with rock formations ranging in color from deep orange to soft pink and cream.

The highlight of Devil’s Garden is Metate Arch, a delicate sandstone arch that seems almost impossibly thin yet perfectly balanced. The surrounding hoodoos, shaped by centuries of wind and water erosion, made the area feel like a natural playground.

Bill and I explored several trails, weaving through the hoodoos and discovering hidden alcoves and wind-carved tunnels. Climbing up onto the rock formations gave us an incredible view of the surrounding desert. It was the perfect way to start our exploration of Hole-in-the-Rock Road.

Walking in the Footsteps of Dinosaurs

Our next stop was a site where history comes to life—over 350 dinosaur tracks embedded in the sandstone, most left behind by enormous, plant-eating Sauropods. Seeing their footprints preserved for millions of years was surreal. I traced my fingers over the edges of one print, imagining the prehistoric giants that once roamed this very ground.

Bill, always up for some fun, decided to mimic their strides—positioning himself next to the tracks and making careful leaps to match the massive distances between them. It was incredible to see just how far apart each step was, a reminder of the sheer size of these ancient creatures. We were mindful not to step directly on the tracks, as preserving these delicate imprints is important for future generations. Watching Bill try to match their gait, I couldn’t help but laugh—this was as close as we’d ever get to walking alongside dinosaurs.

The Slot Canyon Trifecta: Dry Fork, Peek-A-Boo & Spooky

No trip to GSENM is complete without a deep dive into its legendary slot canyons, and we had our sights set on Dry Fork Narrows, Peek-A-Boo, and Spooky—each offering a completely different kind of adventure.

• Dry Fork Narrows was a gentler, more open canyon, but still breathtaking in its winding beauty.
• Peek-A-Boo Slot Canyon welcomed us with twisting, swirling canyon walls that looked like waves of frozen sandstone.
• Spooky Slot Canyon was exactly as its name suggested—dark, eerie, and impossibly narrow. At its tightest point, the passage shrunk to just 15 inches wide, forcing us to sidestep and squeeze our way through. It was 30 feet deep, and in some sections, the light barely reached the canyon floor. Definitely not for the claustrophobic! I found it really helpful to have a headlamp here—there were a couple of spots where it got unexpectedly dark, and having that extra light made navigating much easier.

After scrambling, squeezing, and laughing our way through the slot canyons, we emerged into the open desert, crossing rugged terrain under the late afternoon sun.

A Starry Night and a Furry Visitor

After an adrenaline-filled day, we continued south down Hole-in-the-Rock Road, searching for a dispersed campsite to call home for the night.

We found the perfect spot—remote, quiet, and with just enough open space for a campfire under the stars. As we settled in for the evening, a friendly dog from a nearby camp wandered over, clearly deciding that our fire was the perfect place to curl up. We gladly welcomed him, letting him join us as we enjoyed the quiet of the desert night.

The sky exploded with stars, the kind of brilliant display you only find in places untouched by artificial light. As I leaned back, soaking in the moment, I couldn’t help but reflect on the day.

Reflections on a Perfect Adventure Day

Utah has a way of pushing your limits and expanding your perspective. Today, we had driven through towering red rock canyons, stood over terrifyingly deep chasms, walked in the footsteps of dinosaurs, explored a playground of hoodoos, and squeezed through some of the narrowest slot canyons imaginable.

What struck me the most was the contrast—from the wide-open expanses of Devil’s Garden to the claustrophobic depths of Spooky Slot Canyon. One moment we were scrambling up rock formations, the next we were wedged between sandstone walls barely wider than our shoulders.

And then there were the unexpected moments—finding snow in the desert, stumbling upon dinosaur tracks, and sharing the campfire with a four-legged visitor.

This was exactly why I love these kinds of adventures. They remind me that no matter how much we plan, the best moments are the ones we don’t see coming.

Tomorrow would bring new challenges and new surprises, but for now, I was completely at peace—wrapped in the quiet, wild beauty of Utah’s desert night.

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