Some adventures are about the journey as much as the destination, and Day 4 was exactly that. We started the day by completing our trek down Hole-in-the-Rock Road, explored the flooded corridors of Zebra Slot Canyon, waded through river crossings to reach Escalante Natural Bridge, and ended with a visit to Skyline Arch.
Saying Goodbye to Our Furry Campfire Friend
Before setting out for the final stretch of Hole-in-the-Rock Road, we had one last task—saying goodbye to our four-legged companion. The night before, an adorable dog had wandered into our camp, his soft whimpers melting our hearts. We couldn’t resist letting him join us for the night, curled up by the fire.
As much as we would have loved to take him along on our adventure, we knew he belonged to a nearby camper who had dozed off early the night before. We gave him some last scratches and belly rubs before watching him trot back toward his owner’s camp.
With that bittersweet farewell, we packed up and continued down the road, excited for what lay ahead.
Hole-in-the-Rock Road: A Historic Journey Through Time
This wasn’t just any dirt road—it was a path carved by perseverance and hardship. The Hole-in-the-Rock Road runs from Escalante all the way to the actual Hole-in-the-Rock, a steep, narrow passage on the western shore of Lake Powell. It was originally used by Mormon pioneers in 1879 as they sought to establish a settlement in southeastern Utah. Facing nearly impassable terrain, they spent six weeks blasting, chiseling, and carving a route through the rock, lowering their wagons and livestock down the 1,200-foot descent to the Colorado River below.
Over 600 miles and four days into our journey, we finally reached the end of the road. As we got closer, we left Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and entered Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. After a small scramble down, we were rewarded with a breathtaking view of Lake Powell stretching out before us.
Surprisingly, we had the place to ourselves. The morning was calm, with birds chirping and the wind whispering through the steep sandstone walls. Sitting there, I imagined the sheer determination it must have taken to haul wagons and supplies through this rugged landscape.
Zebra Slot Canyon: A Cold and Challenging Squeeze
After leaving Hole-in-the-Rock, we made our way to the trailhead for Zebra Slot Canyon, one of the most visually stunning slot canyons in Utah.
The Hike to Zebra Slot Canyon
The 5.2-mile round-trip hike started in the open desert, following a sandy wash toward the canyon entrance. This part of Grand Staircase-Escalante is filled with Moki Marbles—small, round iron oxide formations that look like scattered marbles on the desert floor. It was fascinating to see thousands of them piled in pockets along the trail, remnants of the area’s geological history.
After hiking for about 2 miles, we turned into a dry wash that led toward the canyon’s entrance. The towering sandstone walls began to close in, the path tightening with each step. Before we even reached the narrowest section, we encountered the first pool of standing water—ice-cold, murky, and unavoidable.
Into the Flooded Narrows
Bill and I took this as a challenge—who could make it the farthest? At first, the water was only mid-calf deep, but suddenly, there was a drop, and the water shot up to our waists. Step by step, we pushed deeper into the narrows, our bodies adjusting to the frigid water.
And then, I saw it.
A dead frog. Maybe two. Floating in the stagnant water.
At that moment, all my excitement about swimming in the narrow canyon vanished. I froze in place, suddenly reconsidering my life choices. Meanwhile, Bill, oblivious or simply unfazed, continued wading forward, determined to win the challenge.
Eventually, we reached a point where the only way forward was to swim, a prospect neither of us found appealing—especially with dead frogs floating nearby. As the canyon walls tightened even further, the smooth, curved rock formations twisted into a mesmerizing labyrinth of red and white striped sandstone, giving Zebra Slot Canyon its name. Above us, soft light filtered through the narrow openings, casting a dreamlike glow over the surreal, water-filled passage.
Bill insists he won the challenge, but I have my doubts—either way, we were both soaked, cold, and laughing by the time we turned back. It was definitely worth every freezing step—minus the unfortunate frog encounter.
Hiking to Escalante Natural Bridge: River Crossings, Bugs & Red Rock Wonders
After drying off from Zebra Slot Canyon, we drove up Highway 12 to reach the Escalante Natural Bridge trailhead, ready for a more relaxed hike—a journey through the upper Escalante River Canyon to the stunning 130-foot-high Escalante Natural Bridge.
The trail started out sandy and winding, weaving through the red rock landscape. Almost immediately, we encountered our first river crossing—cool, clear water rushing through the canyon floor.
At first, the water was ankle-deep, but as we moved further into the canyon, we had to cross the river multiple times, each one a little deeper than the last. I lost count after the fourth or fifth crossing, but the effort was worth it.
We were happy to have bug spray with us because the canyon was buggy, especially near the water crossings. The last thing we wanted was to be swatting at mosquitoes while hiking through this beautiful landscape.
After the final crossing, we emerged from a grove of cottonwood trees and saw it—Escalante Natural Bridge, a massive sandstone arch standing 130 feet tall, framed by towering canyon walls. The view was breathtaking, and we took a moment to simply enjoy the 360-degree canyon views around us. Wildflowers bloomed along the riverbanks, and the sound of flowing water made it a peaceful, perfect moment.
A Sunset Stop at Skyline Arch
After spending time at Escalante Natural Bridge, we decided to continue another 10 minutes upstream to visit Skyline Arch, a beautiful sandstone arch perched high above the canyon. The added hike was well worth it, as it offered another stunning vantage point of the Escalante River Canyon.
As the day wound down, Skyline Arch was the perfect way to close out another incredible day in Utah’s wild landscapes.
Reflections on a Day of Adventure
Today was a mix of history, challenge, and natural beauty. From standing at Hole-in-the-Rock, where pioneers carved their way into the unknown, to braving the icy waters of Zebra Slot Canyon, and finally wading through river crossings to reach a stunning natural bridge, each moment felt like a reminder of the untamed spirit of Utah.
But it wasn’t just the landscapes that made today special—it was the little moments. Laughing as we sloshed through Zebra Slot Canyon, grateful for bug spray in Escalante River Canyon, and saying goodbye to our unexpected campfire companion—those are the things that will stay with me long after the trip is over.
Tomorrow would be our final day of adventure, and just when we thought we had experienced everything Utah had to offer, Mother Nature had a surprise in store for us.
Western Wanderlust Chronicles 
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