Western Wanderlust Chronicles

Our final day in Utah had arrived, but before heading back to Colorado, there was one last stop we had to make—one of the most well-known and unique features in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument: Lower Calf Creek Falls.

The past five days had been filled with towering cliffs, slot canyons, ancient rock art, and remote desert landscapes, but there was something poetic about ending our adventure at a waterfall hidden deep in a desert canyon.

A Morning Hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls

The 6-mile round-trip hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls winds through a canyon of Navajo Sandstone and Kayenta Formations, following the lush Calf Creek beneath towering rock walls streaked with desert varnish. With all the green trees and flowing water, it was easy to forget that we were still deep in the desert.

We started the hike early in the morning, beneath a thick layer of clouds that hovered over the canyon, offering a cool and peaceful start. A light sprinkle of rain fell as we made our way through the canyon, but it didn’t last long.

Along the way, we spotted remnants of the Fremont Culture, who lived in this canyon 700 to 1300 years ago. Their ancient granaries could still be seen tucked into the canyon walls, blending seamlessly with the rock. Across the canyon, on a large, smooth cliff face, we saw three large painted figures, each with trapezoidal shapes, arms, legs, and elaborate headpieces—classic Fremont-style rock art. It was incredible to think that these images had survived for centuries, a silent reminder of those who had once called this canyon home.

The closer we got to the falls, the cool air and humidity in the canyon intensified, a welcome contrast to the dry desert air we had been used to for the past few days.

A Moment of Solitude at the Falls

Tucked away at the end of the canyon, Lower Calf Creek Falls came into view—a stunning 126-foot cascade, plunging from the canyon rim into a deep, clear pool below. The moment we arrived, the clouds began to break apart, and the sun peeked through, making the waterfall glisten in the light.

For those familiar with Lower Calf Creek Falls, it’s no secret that this spot is usually crowded, but to our surprise and delight, we had the falls to ourselves—even if just for a moment. The mist flying off the falls felt incredible, a refreshing burst of cool air after the hike.

The pool beneath the falls looked like the perfect swimming spot, but today, the water felt too cold to jump in—which, given what lay ahead, was probably for the best.

The Drive Home – From Rain to a Memorial Day Snowstorm

As we left the canyon, rain began to fall, washing the layers of desert dust and mud off Bill’s Jeep. He had been looking forward to showing off his epic three layers of Utah mud, but Mother Nature had other plans.

By the time we hit Highway 12, the rain intensified, making for a slow and misty drive. But the real surprise came when we entered Dixie National Forest.

The rain turned to snow.

On Memorial Day weekend, no less.

At first, we laughed at the irony—one day we were hiking through red rock slot canyons, and the next, we were in full-on winter conditions. But as we gained elevation, the snow quickly became heavier, sticking to the road, and making driving conditions dangerous.

Near the summit at 9,600 feet, vehicles and RVs were getting stuck at lookout points, caught off guard by the rapidly accumulating snow. Our Jeep began sliding, making for an increasingly nerve-wracking drive. Thankfully, a snowplow was ahead of us, carving a path through the thickening snow.

The tow truck operator working the area stopped to check on stranded vehicles, directing them to fall in line behind the plow, forming a slow-moving caravan inching its way up the mountain. We joined the procession, navigating the icy switchbacks at a cautious crawl.

Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we descended into Torrey, where the snow disappeared, replaced by light rain. The relief of making it down safely was overwhelming. We grabbed dinner to shake off the nerves, then continued on to Green River, where we stopped for the night. The next day, we made our way home, reflecting on the incredible journey we had just experienced.

Reflections on an Unforgettable Journey

Our last day in Utah was supposed to be calm and easy—a scenic waterfall hike and a straightforward drive home. Instead, Mother Nature had a surprise in store, reminding us once again how unpredictable and wild Utah can be.

This trip had been everything we hoped for and more—deep slot canyons, ancient rock art, stunning desert vistas, thrilling off-road adventures, and even a winter storm to top it all off.

What made this journey even more special was the rich history we encountered along the way. From the pioneer struggles at Hole-in-the-Rock, to the Fremont Culture’s rock art and granaries, to tracing dinosaur tracks from millions of years ago, it felt like we weren’t just exploring landscapes—we were traveling through time itself. Seeing the stories left behind on canyon walls, in hidden alcoves, and along rugged trails made every mile of this adventure even more meaningful.

As I looked back at the past five days, I realized that what made this trip so incredible wasn’t just the landscapes we explored, but the unexpected moments along the way—the dog who joined us by the fire, the slippery scrambles, the freezing slot canyon water, the snowball fight in the desert, and now, a full-blown snowstorm in late May.

Utah has always held a special place in my heart, and this trip only deepened that connection. Its raw beauty, untamed wilderness, and layers of history make every visit feel like a new discovery. As we made our way home, I knew this trip would be one we’d never forget—and that it wouldn’t be long before we’d return for another adventure.

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