About The Rim to Rim: North Kaibab To Bright Angel
Difficulty: Strenuous
Distance: 24 Miles
Peak Elevation: 8,241 feet at North Kaibab Trailhead
Hiking to the bottom of the Grand Canyon is a MAJOR achievement as less than 1% of all visitors take on and complete this hike. An even smaller fraction of that experience the entire canyon via Rim-to-Rim hike.
For Bill and me, this journey wasn’t just about crossing something off our bucket list—it was about embracing the challenge of a lifetime. The entire Rim-to-Rim hike, completed over two days, would take us through some of the most breathtaking landscapes we had ever seen.
The Perfect Opportunity
Our journey began with an unexpected stroke of luck: a reservation at Phantom Ranch, the only lodging available at the canyon floor. With this secured, our dream of hiking Rim to Rim became a reality. We decided to split the adventure into two days, allowing ourselves time to savor every moment.
Day 1: North Rim to Phantom Ranch
We started the day early, leaving our cozy room at Jacob Inn before dawn. The one-hour motorcycle ride to the North Rim was a brisk one, with temperatures dipping below 35 degrees. Despite the chill, excitement fueled us as we approached the trailhead.
The clear blue skies and red rock vistas greeted us as we began our descent along the North Kaibab Trail. Every step brought new wonders: plummeting canyon walls, vibrant fall colors, and the mesmerizing sound of rushing waterfalls. The trail wound along massive cliffsides, each turn offering picture-perfect moments that left us in awe.
One of the most unforgettable sights was Roaring Springs. The waterfall seemed to emerge from the rock itself, a powerful and unexpected oasis within the canyon’s rugged terrain. The sound of the water energized us for the remaining miles of the 14.3-mile trek.
Another highlight was Ribbon Falls. Though we didn’t have much time to explore, we were struck by its beauty. The cascading water against the lush greenery was a breathtaking contrast to the surrounding red rock landscape. It’s a spot that deserves more time on a future trip.
Around mile marker 9.25, we entered a section of the North Kaibab Trail known as “The Box.” This part of the hike takes you into the Inner Gorge, where the towering canyon walls close in and “box” you in. The dramatic scenery and warmer temperatures made it a unique and memorable part of the day.
As we neared Phantom Ranch, the reality of our descent became clear. We had dropped nearly 6,000 feet in elevation from the rim. Just before dusk, we finally arrived at the ranch, the golden light of the setting sun casting a magical glow on the canyon walls, leaving us with a profound sense of accomplishment.
A Night at Phantom Ranch
Phantom Ranch was everything we hoped it would be and more. After a long day of hiking, we were grateful for the simple luxuries: a cozy cabin with fresh linens and pillows that felt like clouds. Dinner that evening was a hearty “hikers’ stew” brought down by the hardworking mules that serve the ranch. Sharing a meal with fellow adventurers created a sense of camaraderie and connection. We swapped stories, laughed, and marveled at the day’s journey.
Have you heard about the only places in the USA where mail is still delivered by mule? Phantom Ranch is one of them! Bill and I couldn’t resist grabbing a few postcards. Using our headlamps under the starry sky, we filled them out with messages to friends and family. Each postcard gets a special stamp reading “delivered by mule,” a unique and charming memento of the trip.
After dinner and a bit of writing, we were ready for bed. By the time our heads hit the pillows, we were ready for a good night’s sleep. Day two promised new challenges and vistas as we prepared for the next leg of our Rim-to-Rim adventure.
Stay tuned for the continuation of this incredible journey!
Western Wanderlust Chronicles 
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