Day 2 of the Salkantay Trek: From Soraypampa to Collpapampa

Day 2: Soraypampa – Salkantay Pass – Huayracmachay – Chaullay – Collpapampa (Mountain Sky View Camp)

Bill, Greg, and I had an early start for what promised to be the toughest and longest day of the Salkantay trek. Today, we would climb to our highest elevation, reaching 15,190 feet through the Salkantay Pass. After energizing with coca tea and a nutritious breakfast, Greg set off early for the 3-hour trek up the pass, while Bill and I opted for a unique experience: horseback riding in the Andes.

Morning Ascent: Horseback Riding to Salkantay Pass

As we stood under the shadow of Salkantay Mountain in the predawn light, we methodically covered every inch of our chilled skin with fleeces, scarves, hoods, and gloves. The crisp mountain air was invigorating, and the anticipation of the day’s journey filled us with excitement. Behind us, the porters were busy loading duffel bags, sleeping bags, and kitchen equipment onto the backs of a group of patient horses, their breath visible in the cold morning air.

Our trail followed the river, winding its way through the valley. Riding through this breathtaking landscape, we were able to take in the majestic mountain views without the strain of climbing. I was in awe of everything around us—the towering peaks, the rugged terrain, and the sheer beauty of the natural world. Riding the horse up the valley allowed me the opportunity to fully absorb the scenery, capturing mental snapshots of the splendor around us.

The Path of the Seven Snakes

Soon, we reached the infamous “Path of the 7 Snakes,” a series of seven steep switchbacks that zigzagged up the mountainside. The ascent was gradual but challenging, each turn revealing a new perspective of the valley below and the towering peaks above. The horses navigated the switchbacks with steady determination, and we marveled at their surefootedness on the narrow, rocky path.

As we climbed higher, the air grew thinner, and the effort of the ascent became more apparent. But the breathtaking views and the sense of accomplishment propelled us forward. Each switchback brought us closer to the top, and the anticipation of what lay ahead kept our spirits high.

Reaching the Summit: Salkantay Pass

We arrived at the summit simultaneously with Greg. Reaching the top of Salkantay Pass felt like a triumph. The clear skies offered breathtaking views of the valleys and the imposing Salkantay Mountain, standing at 20,574 feet, the second-highest peak in the Cusco region. Standing on the trail, looking back at the path we had conquered, I felt a deep sense of connection to this rugged landscape. The early morning light cast long shadows, highlighting the contours of the mountains. It was a moment of profound appreciation for the journey we were on and the natural beauty that surrounded us.

As we paused to catch our breath and enjoy a snack, we witnessed a small avalanche cascading down Salkantay Mountain. It was an incredible and humbling sight, a stark reminder of the raw power of nature. Our guide then led us in a simple ritual, giving thanks to nature with coca leaves, adding to the profound experience. The mountains, with their timeless presence, reminded us of the grandeur of nature and our small but significant place within it.

Descent: From Salkantay Pass to Huayracmachay

As clouds rolled in, we knew it was time to begin the descent. The descent was a completely different adventure. The 10-mile descent was rocky, steep, and occasionally muddy, but the views were awe-inspiring. As we made our way down from the pass, the landscape gradually transformed. The stark, mountain terrain gave way to lush greenery and vibrant plant life. We trekked toward Huayracmachay, where a delicious lunch awaited us.

Nestled in a valley, this quaint spot offered a serene setting for a much-needed rest. The scent of a delicious meal wafted through the air as we approached our lunch spot. The anticipation of a hearty meal was almost as invigorating as the hike itself.

Lunch was a delightful affair. We feasted on local delicacies, savoring each bite as we recounted the morning’s adventure. The food was nourishing and comforting, providing the perfect fuel for our tired bodies. The camaraderie around the table added to the joy of the meal, with laughter and stories filling the air.

Entering the Cloud Forest: From Huayracmachay to Collpapampa

Leaving Huayracmachay behind, we descended further into the lush, vibrant landscape. The transition from the Andes high-altitude terrain to the dense, green forest of the Peruvian jungle was fascinating. Mist clung to the foliage, creating an ethereal atmosphere, aptly named the “cloud forest.” Walking through the cloud forest felt like stepping into another world. The air was thick with humidity, and the greenery seemed to pulse with life. Light rain occasionally fell, enhancing the mystical atmosphere of the rainforest.

The trail led us past numerous hidden waterfalls and cascades, each more enchanting than the last. The sound of water tumbling over rocks was a constant companion, providing a soothing soundtrack to our journey.

Arrival at Collpapampa: A Welcoming Sight

After several hours of trekking through the lush forest, we emerged into the open area of Collpapampa. Nestled in the valley, Collpapampa was a welcoming sight. We quickened our pace, eager to rest. We were greeted by the mountain domes with stunning valley views. The domes were situated in a picturesque location, surrounded by verdant hills and the sounds of nature.

We settled into our mountain domes and took some time to relax and unwind. The accommodations were cozy, providing a perfect blend of comfort and connection with the natural surroundings. I was happy for a hot shower after a long day on the trail. We enjoyed a delicious dinner prepared by our guides, savoring the flavors and the warmth of the meal.

This day had been a journey of contrasts and discoveries. Day 2 was tough, but the experiences and scenery were unforgettable. We looked forward to the adventures that Day 3 would bring.