Western Wanderlust Chronicles

Day 4: Lucmabamba – Llactapata – Hidroeléctrica – Aguas Calientes

Every trail brings adversity, and the challenges we overcome are part of what makes a trail memorable.

A Mental and Physical Challenge

The soreness in my body and the looming time crunch made me reconsider tackling the final section of the Salkantay route. This stretch involved a punishing 2,624-foot ascent followed by a 3,000-foot descent over 5.5 hours. If we dawdled, we risked missing our train, forcing us to trek an additional 6-7 miles down the railroad to Aguas Calientes. Given the sharp knee pain I’d endured two days prior and a toenail that was barely hanging on, I decided to take a taxi and meet the group for lunch at Ahobamba Restaurant. The taxi dropped off me and a few others at a crossing bridge that felt like a scene from an Indiana Jones movie, but the mountain vistas breathtaking. As I waited for Bill, Greg, and our guide, Porfi, to arrive, I was entranced by the butterflies that fluttered around us.

On the Doorstep to Machu Picchu

Bill, Greg, and Porfi, departed the Jungle Camp later than planned but fueled by a hearty breakfast, they were ready to conquer the day’s formidable challenge. Bill indicated it would be the most grueling section of the hike. The Salkantay Trek to Llactapata follows a segment of an ancient Inca trail. Near the summit, the path transforms into an unending series of stone steps. After battling through the dense jungle, they emerged at Llactapata, greeted by awe-inspiring views of the Santa Teresa valley and their first glimpse of Machu Picchu. They paused to explore an Inca archaeological site, delving into the mysteries of this ancient culture. Then, with time pressing, they embarked on a rapid, steep descent to the restaurant. Practically sprinting down the hill, they arrived just in time, greeted by our group’s enthusiastic cheers. With barely 30 minutes for lunch, they hastily refueled before we all headed to Hidroeléctrica to catch our train.

Hidroeléctrica

Hidroeléctrica is a marvel, boasting an 820-foot high artificial waterfall that powers the entire city of Cusco. Once there, we boarded the train, with time to spare, for a scenic ride to Aguas Calientes. Despite our exhaustion, we couldn’t tear our eyes away from the breathtaking landscapes unfolding outside the windows.

Arrival at Aguas Calientes

Aguas Calientes took us by surprise with its charm and vibrancy, nestled high in the Peruvian mountains. The town bustled with shops and restaurants, and a series of bridges spanned the river that flowed through its heart. Music filled the air, and a marching band roamed the streets, adding to the lively atmosphere. I felt a pang of regret knowing we had only one night to enjoy this enchanting town. After a long, hot shower, we gathered with the group for a delightful dinner before retiring to our cozy hotel room.

Tomorrow, the highlight of our journey awaited us: visiting the legendary site of Machu Picchu and hiking up Huayna Picchu, the grand finale of our incredible Salkantay adventure.