Western Wanderlust Chronicles

Our Canadian Rockies Adventure Begins

Every journey has a beginning, and ours started on the open road from Colorado. This 10-day adventure would eventually lead us into the heart of the Canadian Rockies—Banff, Jasper, and Yoho National Parks—but first, we had a date with one of America’s most iconic landscapes, Yellowstone.

Though it was my third visit, sharing it with Bill made everything feel brand new. Together we would see Old Faithful, hike trails, and breathe in the wild rhythms of America’s first national park. I still remember my first trip to Yellowstone, racing from one sight to the next like it was my own Disney World. These days I’ve learned to savor it, to slow down and let the landscapes unfold in their own rhythm.

Bear Sightings & Mountain Passes

Not long after crossing Togwotee Pass, the wilderness greeted us with a thrill—a massive black bear dashed across the road and bounded up the mountain slope. Every time I’ve seen a bear, it’s been in Teton County, and this time was no less awe-inspiring. We watched him disappear into the trees, swift and powerful, then continued on our journey.

The Tetons soon appeared on the horizon, jagged peaks rising into the sky. We wouldn’t be stopping in Grand Teton National Park on this trip, but just glimpsing at them rising above the horizon always stirs something inside me.

By the time we reached Madison Campground, the day’s drive had caught up with us. We set up camp, eager for sleep and the promise of tomorrow’s adventure.

Steam & Stone

The next morning was brisk, our breath visible in the cool air, but we knew the sun would soon warm the park. Our first full day in the park began at Firehole Canyon Drive, where the Firehole River wound through walls of volcanic rock. The morning light danced across the water, softening the edges of the rugged cliffs. At Firehole Falls, the river thundered over black lava rock, a cascade both fierce and beautiful.

From there, we wandered the boardwalk at Fountain Paint Pots in the Lower Geyser Basin, where Yellowstone’s geothermal world came alive all at once. Steam rose in thick clouds, hissing from vents. Mud pots bubbled and burped, thick clay popping like nature’s stew. Pools shimmered in surreal shades of blue and green, each one its own portal into the earth’s fiery heart.

Next, we explored the colorful treasures of Black Sand Basin. Fiery Sunset Lake rippled with steam, while the brilliant Emerald Pool glowed in shades of deep green and gold. Tucked close together, these springs felt like jewels scattered across the basin floor.

Then came the main event—the one Bill had been most eager to see: Old Faithful. We found seats and settled in, anticipation mingling with the crisp air. The wait can stretch twenty minutes or more, and this time the geyser kept us guessing, testing our patience. Finally, with a hiss and a surge, water shot skyward, steaming and sparkling in the sunlight. The eruption was shorter than Bill had expected, but still magical—a reminder that nature performs on her own terms.

Canyons & Waterfalls

Driving deeper into the park, we paused at Gibbon Falls, where the river tumbled 84 feet in a foaming rush framed by canyon walls. It was a quick stop, but one that spoke to the raw, untamed beauty woven into Yellowstone’s fabric.

Our route carried us next to Canyon Village and the South Rim Drive. From the Clear Lake Trailhead we admired the Upper Falls of the Yellowstone River, though I felt a pang of disappointment when I learned Uncle Tom’s Trail—a favorite from my 2017 trip—was permanently closed. Still, the trail drew us onward to Artist Point, where the mighty Lower Falls roared into the canyon. The walls glowed in streaks of gold, rust, and red, painted by minerals over millennia. Along the way, I sought out something new: Crystal Falls. Hidden between the famous Upper and Lower Falls, its 129-foot plunge felt like a secret discovery, a ribbon of water veiling the canyon’s rugged heart.

Though evening crept in, we made one last stop at Norris Geyser Basin, Yellowstone’s hottest and most changeable geothermal area. The boardwalk carried us through an alien landscape—vivid pools reflecting the sky, steam hissing in every direction. At Steamboat Geyser, the tallest geyser in the world, we lingered to watch it bubble and sigh, releasing bursts of water and vapor that hinted at the incredible force lying beneath. Bathed in the glow of the setting sun, the basin felt ethereal, a dreamlike finale to a full day.

Reflections at Camp

That night, back at Madison Campground, we cooked a late dinner under the stars. As we drifted to sleep, I felt a mix of exhaustion and anticipation of what lay ahead. This was just the beginning. Tomorrow, would bring a long drive north into Montana and a new milestone—crossing the border into Alberta, Canada, for our first time.

Stay tuned—next we journey into the heart of the Canadian Rockies and one of its crown jewels: Banff National Park.