Banff National Park – First Glimpses of the Rockies (Days 3-4)

Welcome to Canada

Yellowstone had set the stage, but the true centerpiece of our journey awaited across the border. We departed early from Madison Campground, the road stretching long and straight ahead. This leg was less about sightseeing and more about transition—miles of Montana unfolding beneath us. Rugged peaks softened into wide valleys, which flattened into endless prairie beneath a sky so vast it made us feel both small and free.

By the time we reached the Sweetgrass, MT / Coutts, AB border, anticipation buzzed. It was not only the start of a new chapter, but also Bill’s and my very first time in Alberta. The sign welcoming us into Canada felt momentous, a milestone marking the beginning of something unforgettable. After a long day’s drive, we pulled into Banff just as the sun dipped low, the mountains cloaked in shadow. It wasn’t until morning that their full majesty revealed itself—towering, jagged peaks streaked with early autumn color.

Banff National Park: Canada’s First Jewel

Banff is where Canada’s national park system began. It is one of the most visited in the country, and for good reason. Home to icons like Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and Johnston Canyon, it’s a place where every turn reveals alpine meadows, turquoise rivers, and dramatic peaks. Beyond the postcard-perfect views, there are quiet corners that feel like sanctuaries, where the hum of the crowds fades and only the sounds of water and wind remain. For us, Banff became the starting point of our Canadian adventure—an introduction to the Rockies’ grandeur that would only deepen as the days went on.

Cascades & Canyons

In the morning light, Cascade Mountain shimmered with silver threads of waterfalls. Driving along Highway 1A, we hugged the Bow River, its glacier-fed waters the color of liquid jade. I couldn’t help but smile when we passed one of Banff’s famous wildlife overpasses—gracefully arched and covered in trees and brush, blending seamlessly with the forest. It felt like a quiet symbol of coexistence, a way for wild creatures to cross safely, unseen yet respected.

Our first stop of the day was Johnston Canyon, one of Banff’s most iconic hikes. The trail wound us through lush forest and along narrow catwalks bolted to the canyon walls. Moss-draped cliffs rose high above us, the air damp and cool with the scent of pine and stone. At the Lower Falls, turquoise water surged through a chiseled rock cleft, spraying mist into the air as it thundered into a pool below. Further up, the Upper Falls plunged an impressive 98 feet into a deep turquoise basin, its roar echoing through the gorge. Standing there, surrounded by sheer canyon walls, it felt like stepping into the lungs of the earth—each breath deep and alive.

Hidden Gems

Next came Silverton Falls, a lesser-known gem tucked away from the crowds. The trail led us through a quiet forest, sunlight flickering through tall pines, until we reached the falls. Cascading over 160 feet (50 meters) down a narrow chute, the water spilled gracefully against a backdrop of rugged peaks. It felt peaceful, almost secret, a place where you could linger in solitude and hear nothing but the steady rhythm of falling water.

As the day softened toward evening, we made our way to Vermilion Lakes. Here, the mountains stretched wide and the still water reflected their grandeur in shimmering ripples. Mount Rundle rose dramatically on one side, Sulphur Mountain on the other, both bathed in golden light. Reeds whispered in the breeze at the shoreline, and the scene felt timeless, as though the Rockies themselves were pausing to admire their own reflection.

Sweet Endings

We closed the day in true Banff fashion—with a sweet indulgence. A stop for BeaverTails introduced us to a Canadian classic: fried dough pastries topped with endless combinations. Bill chose apple pie, while I went for simple cinnamon sugar. The taste—warm, sweet, and just a little nostalgic—reminded me of funnel cakes at a summer fair. It was the perfect way to wrap up our first full day in Banff: bellies full, hearts light, and excitement building for the adventures still ahead.